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Feeding Horses: Just the Basics Everybody knows horses need forage and grain…but how much? how often? what kind? what else? The answers may be slightly different for each horse depending on size, breed, use, and stage of development.
• Forage. The horse is designed to graze more or less continuously, ingesting a large amount of fibrous materialover the course of each day. Although the stomach is relatively small, the hindgut is quite large, and its function is critical to the horse’s health and nutrition. The hindgut is inhabited by billions of microbes that aid in the digestion of fiber. Fiber fermentation produces volatile fatty acids including butyrate, acetate, and propionate that can be used by horses to meet their energy needs. To maintain proper function of the intestinal tract, all horses should be fed some roughage daily. An amount equal to 1-1.5% of the horse’s body weight is suggested as a minimum. High-quality pasture is often the easiestand most economical way to meet the horse’s fiber requirement, and turnout on pasture can be an important part of a good feeding program. Management of pasture is critical to maintaining forage quality. Soil testing should be done routinely, with liming, fertilizing, mowing, and rotating scheduled as needed. Hay is the fiber alternative used most often if pasture is not available. Orchardgrass, fescue, and timothy are typical grasses made into hay; alfalfa and clover are legumes used for the same purpose. Legumes are generally higher in nutritive value than are grasses, but many classes of horses do not require this level of nutrition. Good hay should be sweet-smelling, green, leafy, and free of weeds and tough, stemmy plants. Moldy or dusty hay should not be fed to horses. Plants develop more indigestible lignin (woody material) as they mature, so hay cut earlier in the growth cycle is generally more appetizing and nutritious than plants that have been allowed to grow to full size. For some feeding programs, the so-called “super fibers” such as soy hulls and beet pulp are excellent choices to provide the benefits of fiber as well as contributing energy. • Grain. While some classes of horses get along well on forage alone, hard-working horses need additional dietaryenergy. Grain-based concentrates have traditionally provided this extra energy. Plants store energy in their seeds in the form of starch, and these energy-packed cereal grains such as oats, corn, and barley are staples of many livestock diets. The chains of glucose molecules that make up starch are metabolized in the horse’s small intestine to produce glycogen. • Fat. Another energy source is fat, which is about 2.25 times as energy-dense as an equivalent amount of starch.Easily digested in the small intestine, fat is absorbed as free fatty acids. This source of energy may reduce the amount of glycogen burned in low-intensity exercise. While fat can be used by all classes of horses, concentrates with added fat (those that contain more than about 5% fat) are particularly well suited to horses performing intense exercise. A publication of Kentucky Equine Research, Inc. • 3910 Delaney Ferry Road • Versailles, KY 40383 USA • 859-873-1988, Fax 859-879-0770 • www.ker.com • Feed forms. Straight grains—corn, oats, barley—can be fed whole or slightly processed. Palatability is generallygood, but these grains by themselves don’t supply all the nutrients necessary for growth and development in young horses or for tissue maintenance and energy production in intensely exercised horses. Textured feed, or sweet feed, is a mixture of several cereal grains and molasses. A balancer pellet is included to provide minerals and vitamins. Other ingredients such as powdered fat, rice bran, and beet pulp may be added. Sweet feed is dustless, sweet-smelling, and palatable to most horses; it is somewhat messy to handle and may tend to mold in hot, humid climates. Pelleted feeds generally contain the same ingredients as sweet feeds. The ingredients are ground, steam-treated, and forced through a pelleting die. Pellets eliminate sorting of ingredients by picky horses. They have a longer shelf life and are not likely to mold. • Feed management. Hay and grain need to be stored in a dry place where contamination by dust and rodentscan be avoided and where horses don’t have access. Hay should be fed several times a day, avoiding long periods where the horse has nothing to nibble on. Owners should be sure that horses always have access to fresh, clean water. The daily grain ration should be broken up into two, three, or more small feeding of less than five pounds each. Owners should consult with feed dealers to select products designed for the type, age, and use of each horse in their care. After using a scale or weight tape to determine each horse’s size, the owner can check feeding instructions for the amount to give each horse. Taking into account the horse’s body condition (too thin, too heavy, or about right) and work level, the owner can monitor weight loss or gain every month or so, adjusting the amount or type of forage and concentrate to keep the horse healthy and energetic. Courtesy of Kentucky Equine Research, Inc.
To recap: A horse should be receiving 1.5% of its body weight in hay or grass. If it is a 1000lb horse then theyshould be eating 15 pounds of hay a day. If your horse is out on pasture half the day then they should be eating half of their forage requirement out on grass and should eat 7.5 lbs of hay when they are in the stall.
Grain is the hard one! Everyone goes to the feed store and looks at all the different kinds of feeds but when you are picking one out...it is the right choice? I prefer the ration balancer feed. Two feeds come to mind: progressive nutrition and buckeye both of which are ration balancers, meaning in one to two pounds they can provide your horse with all the daily nutrition. For a horse in minimal work these feeds are perfect. For a horse that is in training you will need to add a high calorie feed like oats to supplement with. If your horse is a hard keeper but you do not want him to be high energy another additional feed could be fat food or beet pulp. If you have an easy keeper the ration balancers are perfect. If they are still overweight you can cut back on the grass especially rich grass in the spring time but the key is exercise!
A good way to keep track of your horses weight is by measuring with a weight tape. These are not exactly accurate but if you measure with the same one all the time then it can still give you an idea if your horse is loosing or gaining weight. Also, it is a good idea to "condition score" your horse. You can try and do this yourself as it is a system based on the degree of fatness of your horse ranging from 0-5. 0 being emaciated and 5 being obese.
This table will also help with determining what body condition score your horse is:
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